I love Seoraksan National Park, I hate early mornings. 3 am. “I can do this!” I thought to myself.
Nope. I give up, you win this round nature. I closed my eyes. 5 more minutes was all I needed. Then I would be ready, after all Seoraksan is famous throughout South Korea for its fall foliage.
The bus slowed to a stop and idle movement turned into shambling zombies slowly rising and departing half asleep. I willed myself to get up, eyes still closed I peeked with my left. There was Warren. No wait. He was on the other bus. Gotta channel my inner Warren and get people ready to go!
Dragging myself off the seat I grabbed my bag and headed into the crisp autumn morning. Wait, this isn’t morning. We are here well before the asscrack of dawn. With any luck we’ll see dawn’s beautiful spectacle from the top of Korea’s 3rd highest peak, Daechongbong. We started off in the darkness only to find hundreds, perhaps even thousands of Koreans with the same idea. Never have I ever seen such a traffic jam on a hiking trail!
Slowly the crowd thinned out as some of us ducked, dived, dipped and dodged our way through the line sneaking ahead only to find the crowd grow dense yet again at the next staircase. Climbing ever higher the wind began whipping through the leafless trees (at this altitude in mid-October the leaves have already fallen). A purple-orange hue crept over the horizon threatening to emerge moments too soon. Forgetting the soreness in my legs I pushed ever onward, stopping only for the occasional traffic jam from 3am all the way until up 1708 meters to the top of Daecheongbong by 6:45!
Crowded sunrise at the top of Daecheongbong
My German buddy Peter giving the sunrise a hug from 1708 meters
What a view! Last time I tried this hike I was too sore and all too slow. Yeah this was my second time summiting Daecheongbong but there’s something magical about watching sun rise over the ocean from nearly 2 kilometers up. Slowly more of our 90 person group wandered to the peak. We had about a dozen of us up here snacking and snapping away; I knew Jungcheong shelter was just a few hundred meters below and decided to skip a big breakfast at the peak in lieu of warmer conditions.
Descending is a downright pleasant experience after turning it up to full throttle on Daecheongbong’s steep trails. We strolled among the branches and rocks and were inspired by Dinosaur Ridge to our right when I suddenly became unsure if my knees would hold out for that exhausting finish.
Pausing for photo breaks, a few snacks and a regular breather we crossed a river and made it to Huiungak shelter by 9:15 (10am was the latest we could leave if we wanted to attempt Dinosaur Ridge). Warren and a few dozen of our hiking buddies were waiting and snacking when suddenly Warren told everyone to head to the first peak of Dinosaur Ridge for a picnic. Up there we’ll have a magnificent view and an abundance of sunshine; the only advantage to Huiungak shelter was a water supply and the ability to buy ramen or canned tuna.
The steep climb to Dinosaur Ridge’s first peak combines 2 series of rope climbs as we scrambled up the rock face. In between these treacherous paths lies a narrow, flat, stony walkway. Here we began to catch some glimpses of fall colors before getting to the final set of ropes. Pulling hand over hand we ascended to a precipice with a handful of (mostly Korean) tourists and a stunning view.
Posing at the top of Dinosaur Ridge’s first peak
Click for an awesome panorama from Dinosaur Ridge’s first peak